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By Asian Pacific News Service

The road that winds into the village of Siahar cuts through burnt out wheat fields where Punjabi villagers toil for the next harvest under a merciless sun.

Avoiding a maze of cows, bicycles and donkey-carts, we pass the temple where a Sikh guru sought refuge during an ancient war before taking a sharp right under the gateway that leads to Siahara's Nanaksar Ashram. The unusually wide village road abruptly ends at a fortress like temple complex surrounded by Armalite carrying cops from the Punjab Armed Police.